As David and I have watched downtown restaurants open in the past several years, sometimes we feel like the downtown and Over-The-Rhine areas are part of a life-sized game board of Monopoly.
I’ve long joked that David Falk is trying to own the block 6th and Walnut, with Nada, Boca and Sotto right next to each other. Dan Wright (Senate, Abigail Street, Pontiac) is another participant in the game. Falk and Wright have been very successful -- but there’s another set of players that are making some aggressive moves.
I’m talking, as you may have guessed, about the Thunderdome Restaurant Group.
Bakersfield. Currito. The Eagle. It’s easy to spot the work of John and Joe Lanni, just look for the line of people waiting outside.
Most recently, they’ve ventured south and west, to the 84.51 building on Race Street. Maplewood Kitchen is the newest investment from Thunderdome, and it is quite the investment. The interior of the restaurant is stunning. With each endeavor, Thunderdome has upped their game a little.
Straight out of one of those Restoration Hardware catalogs full of things no reasonable person can afford
If Bakersfield is a bar for devil-may-care young folks that hit tacos hard and happy hour even harder, and The Eagle is a restaurant those same folks can later bring their kids to for a grilled cheese while the adults enjoy a large goblet of high-life respite, Maplewood Kitchen is a place where tastes have evolved a bit: You’re thirty-five now. Time to start ‘eating clean’, even though you don’t know what that really means. Here, have a cold-pressed juice cocktail. Sure, it’s $10, but you’ve got a good job and a 401K. You can afford it. Maybe not more than one, though. You’ve got a lot of errands to do today.
The process is pretty straightforward. Walk through the front doors, solve the Cracker Barrel-esque puzzle to get your menu clipboard off the hook hanging from a brass rail, and make your way to the front of the line, where you can select pastries, juices or other beverages. At the register, place your order (including cocktails) and take your number to your seat of choice.
If you can't get it off the hook slink away in shame and just order the burger
After you’ve had some time to appreciate the decor and the fact that they have put sparkling water on tap, your drinks and food are brought out to you.
We’ve been to Maplewood Kitchen several times now, and have tried a variety of dishes and cocktails.
First, drinks. Cocktails, as I alluded to above, aren’t inexpensive, but cold-pressed juice isn’t a cheap thing to make. The Supergreen Margarita, made with 100% agave tequila, Cointreau, sour mix, and a blend of spinach, pineapple, romaine, kale, parsley and celery juices, is unlike any margarita I’ve ever had before. I was skeptical at first, but did enjoy it and would order it again. The grassiness of the green juice added another layer of complexity to the drink. I felt sort of healthy ordering it, another plus.
How Green? Supergreen.
Next, the Roasted Tomatillo Bloody Mary. David’s the bigger bloody Mary fan, so he tried this one. We appreciated the unique take on the drink, but it needs salt, spice and more acid. The solution for that would be simple-- a splash of green hot sauce, like Tabasco, would do the trick.
Blackberry Lemonade is a crowd-pleaser. Not only is it very pretty to look at, the cocktail is delicious. I’d get this one again for sure.
The cocktail I was most curious about was the Sol Driver, a blend of Tito’s vodka, Grand Marnier, Sol Glo juice, fresh orange juice and orange bitters. This was probably my second favorite cocktail we tried.
Now, the food. Don’t skip the sides. The hash brown is excellent, the bacon crispy, and any place where you can get a side of goetta automatically gets extra points in my book.
Our first visit I opted for the Breakfast Sandwich, David for the Avocado Benedict. The bread for the sandwich I really enjoyed, with excellent ‘holes’ in the ciabatta structure. The goetta needed a little more crunch, but the flavor was excellent. Where this sandwich really goes off the rails is the tomato jalapeno jam. For a savory sandwich, there was a lot of it--and the jam was extremely sweet. While this combo can work well with some dishes, it combined with the mushy goetta for a very strange experience.
Do not pump up this jam
David’s eggs on his Benedict were poached beautifully, although the naming does raise some questions. Traditionally, a Benedict contains some sort of meat or protein - bacon, ham, goetta, etc. While tasty, this dish doesn’t include any of that--or even the traditional hollandaise sauce.
It seems that putting some spin on the traditional Eggs Benedict is standard practice nowadays, but this one pushes the envelope in how many elements you can change and still call something Benedict. Given the ingredients, it would be more fair to label this a variant of "avocado toast."
I get what Maplewood is trying to do here, but Benedict isn’t supposed to be healthy, it’s supposed to be an indulgence. I would rather have seen the dish try to straddle the divide a bit better. Workaround: order a side of tasty bacon and assemble to your liking.
It seems that putting some spin on the traditional Eggs Benedict is standard practice nowadays, but this one pushes the envelope in how many elements you can change and still call something Benedict. Given the ingredients, it would be more fair to label this a variant of "avocado toast."
I get what Maplewood is trying to do here, but Benedict isn’t supposed to be healthy, it’s supposed to be an indulgence. I would rather have seen the dish try to straddle the divide a bit better. Workaround: order a side of tasty bacon and assemble to your liking.
The burger is delicious. Toppings are well proportioned, the bun holds up and the meat blend is excellent. This is one of our top burgers downtown.
Another great sandwich is the chicken club. You wouldn’t think it would be hard to get a great club sandwich somewhere, but the reality is sometimes the simplest things are the hardest to find. We’ve gotten the club several times now, and have been very happy with the sandwich, also served on excellent 16 Brick ciabatta bread with flavorful piri piri sauce.
Lastly, the Maplewood Omelette and the Bistro Steak and Eggs. We enjoyed the omelette, but the steak & eggs stole the show. Tender steak with a nice punch of chimichurri, toast with delicious jam and some of those spectacular hash browns --if you’re feeling a big breakfast, this is the way to go.
Maplewood Kitchen is a great addition to this corner of Downtown, which has largely been overlooked when it comes to new development (read: get it while you can, retailers and restaurateurs). It's nice to see Thunderdome try something different, as well.
Welcome to the neighborhood, Maplewood.
